Monday, October 9, 2006

Emotions: heartbeat of the soul

This is an extract from Why Lawyers Should Surf co-authored with Dr Michelle Tempest which is now available on Waterstone's website here or can be ordered from XPL Publishing on 0870 079 8897 (p&p is included). Further extracts can be found here. To see a review of the book in The Independent click here.

Einstein pointed to the fact that waves are manifest in all areas of our physical world. We see through the medium of light waves and hear through sound waves. Waves transmitting bundles of energy. So, too, with surfing. Farber in On Water, “These children at play, singing the song of the sea.” Jack London pointed out that the water itself does not move forward. It is only energy and “The water that composes the body of a wave is stationary. Thus, you may watch a particular portion of the ocean’s surface and you will see the same water rise and fall a thousand times to the agitation communicated by a thousand successive waves.”

Billy Hamilton, one of the great surfers of the 1960s and step-father of big wave surfer Laird Hamilton said, “To become the energy of the waves, that’s the main idea. You take when the water gives, and you give when the water takes”. In Voice of the Wave (re-printed in The Surfer’s Journal), Tom Blake, one of the founders of modern surfing went further and suggested looking inside the wave itself and further still to the secrets it holds at an atomic level. He said, “Each water molecule…is a model of order, harmony and rhythm; thus the atom becomes the key point of reference…in judging the wave as well as all problems in life.” So it is with looking to our emotions. They are like waves, the steady heartbeat of our soul. They are subtle, complex and not altogether clear, much like the constituent parts of a wave. They are fundamental to our very existence.

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